Restaurant review: Texture, London

The quality range seems to be very vast in the group of restaurants that have 1 Michelin star. My husband and I have thought this many times in the past, and within the last few weeks have dined at a 1 star restaurant that was definitely at the lower end of the 1 star places we’ve been to, and one that was at the top end of all the 1 star restaurants. The difference between the two restaurants is so big that I’m not sure how they can both have the same rating.

We decided to go for the fish tasting menu with matching wines. Texture is a Scandinavian restaurant, and we were surprised by a fusion of Scandinavian and Asian flavours. One would think these two to be too far from each other, to be successfully joined together, but it indeed works together very well! What is also interesting is that the restaurant doesn’t use butter or cream for their cooking.

We arrived 20 minutes early for our booking, which was the first seating, and were pleased to be welcomed in. We had our champagne aperitif, as well as nibbles at the bar, whilst waiting for the restaurant service to begin. This was at bonus to the place, because some places don’t let you in until the first seating starts, which is especially annoying if it’s raining.

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The menu started with a wonderful beetroot soup, which was earthy and sweet, with a velvety consistency. It was paired with Henriot Demi Sec champagne, which complimented the food very well. on it’s own, the sweetness of the champagne was very present, however when had together with the food it didn’t seem sweet at all.

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Next course of salmon was a delight, and the best course of the menu for my husband. Salmon can often be overcooked, but this one was cooked exactly how it should be, very moist and pink inside. It was served with oscietra caviar, slightly mustard flavoured sauce, sorrel, perfectly thin rye bread and very well pickled cucumber. All the flavours worked very well, served with mild flavoured Italian Garlider 2016 Sylvaner.

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Next dish of scallop had flavours of coconut, kaffir lime and lemongrass. They were skillfully used, and weren’t overpowering the dish. one thing my husband didn’t like was fresh coriander, that had been used. It seems a lot of restaurants these days use fresh coriander as a garnish to a lot of their plates, even though it has a strong, overpowering taste. The South African FMC 2016 Chenin Blanc served with this dish was a big hit with both my husband and I. Even though this wine is a little bit more complex, with slight oakiness, and you might wonder how it could possible go with the flavor combinations of the dish, the wine complimented the dish well, as well as being a delight to drink on it’s own.

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Cod was cooked very well, the piece was very meaty and flaky. I think cod is quite a boring and tasteless fish, so it needs interesting accompaniments. It was served with avocado, brandade, tomatoes which were prepared very nicely, and chorizo. There was also a little bit of potato mash under the fish, and some cannellini beans. I think the fish was hidden under a lot of ingredients, and plating could’ve perhaps been a bit more refined for this dish. I also think that the beans didn’t seem necessary. Wine pairing with this dish was Italian 2012 Pinot Noir Montalcino. I’ve had Pinot Noir served with monkfish before, but not with cod. The wine didn’t overpower the cod, and suited all the ingredients in the dish.

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I wasn’t too keen on the taste of the pre dessert palate cleanser. It was clean but dull flavoured, however I would’ve liked a bit more freshness and sharpness from it.

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There were elements I really liked in the dessert, and also some I wasn’t too sure about. The skyr pannacotta was nice, and I loved the nectarines, I thought these were the star of this dish. The ice-cream for me didn’t have much flavor. Wine served with the dessert was German 2013 Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Auslese, which was a sweeter Riesling, however not too syrupy and sweet like some dessert wines might be.

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Rating: ★★★★☆

Author: luxlifefinn

Lover of good food. Fine dining as a hobby, home cooking as a passion.

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